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Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance
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About the Author
Dan Hague is an 18-year veteran in the indoor climbing industry who has built and managed 4 climbing gyms, the latest in central Virginia. He also consults with gym operators and sits on the Climbing Wall Association's Board of Directors. He is an avid climber, winning his division of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series in 2010. Douglas Hunter was a full-time climber and coach for 10 years, during which time he trained many elite climbers and was a top level sport climber. He now lives and climbs in Southern California, where he continues to develop new training methodology.
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Product details
Paperback: 240 pages
Publisher: Stackpole Books; Pap/DVD edition (February 17, 2006)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 9780811733397
ISBN-13: 978-0811733397
ASIN: 0811733394
California residents: Click here for Proposition 65 warning.
Product Dimensions:
7.2 x 0.4 x 9.1 inches
Shipping Weight: 1.4 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.4 out of 5 stars
103 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#34,037 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
I started climbing about a year ago and I felt I was a bit heavy for climbing (struggled to do even 1 pull-up). A coworker recommended me this book and I'm really glad I got it.The book taught me how to use technique to overcome my weight disadvantage (gravity is a turd-face sometimes). It has activities you can do at the climbing gym (safe for newbies like me) that'll help you become more aware of your footwork, balance, shifting your center of gravity. It also goes into details on what muscle groups you are using and how they are relevant to your climbing. It's the best substitute for an actual mentor imo.I haven't watched the DVD it comes with yet, but the book was so good that I didn't ever feel the need to pop it in the player.Climb on!
Getting a ton of good information out of this book. I haven't checked out the DVD, so cannot comment on it, but all of the pictures and written descriptions in the book are so clear and well thought out that I haven't felt the need.I'm a beginner climber 4-5 months, so I have mainly focused on stuff discussed in the first half of the book. The most insightful tips that I've taken away are on balance and the use of opposing forces on the wall to climb smarter. I am continuing to work through the exercises described in the book to take my training to the next level.
I'm a relatively new climber, climbing for almost a year and currently working V2 and 10b. I received this book a little under a week ago and have already made my way through it once. It has made me consciously aware of many things that I was sensing intuitively at times, but had trouble recreating consistently because I wasn't aware of the underlying dynamics going on. It also exposed to me several concepts that I haven't 'felt' yet.It's full of great training practices, particularly for movement, and as such is particularly helpful for a beginning climber like myself. I'm sure that any climber though could benefit from honing technique and control over the concepts explored in this book.The training schedules outlined in the back are rather intense for anyone with a 9-5. I tend to climb 3 to 4 times a week for a couple of hours, but the books recommends up to 7 hours in one performance day in a week, with training days lasting up to 5 hours. Regardless, they provide a great basic structure to work from. Additionally, a great deal of information is outlined on the specifics of aerobic and anaerobic activity and how to increase both.In short, I heard this book was a must-have and I emphatically agree. I am very happy that I purchased it and I am confident it will help me push my climbing to the next level.
As someone who feels he understands movement (previously a professional ballet dancer), and whose brain likes breaking ideas and concepts down into their component parts/works algorithmically and mathematically/wants to understand the relationship between certain actions and their effect on one's equilibrium, this book is an incredible asset. I am a relatively new climber, and while I appreciate the tips and lessons my friends have share with me, few have been able to explain to me the "why" underlying certain moves or actions -- they are able to show me what they do, but the synthesis of those actions within my own body is awkward since no two bodies are exactly alike; accordingly, what works for one, may not quite work for another. This book on the other hand, provides me not only the nomenclature, but also the building blocks and conceptual break down I was so very much looking for. It is no quick-study guide to immediate improvements in one's climbing, but what it did for me is it has given me the tools and mental thought processes/concepts needed, that over time I will be able to work into my own movements. The DVD is relatively short, but gives clear depictions of the drills you can try at your own climbing gym. Definitely recommend this book to climbers - beginner or advanced - that want to more thoroughly understand movement/climbing concepts.
"The Self-Coached Climber" is an excellent training resource for climbers at just about any level. I bought the book recently and before even finishing reading it, I started seeing improvements in my technique from working on the exercises.In contrast to other books like "How to Climb 5.12," SCC is highly detailed and specific in its approach to improving fundamentals like balance, center of gravity and movement skills. The book provides excellent exercises for particular skills, and these are illustrated with abundant photos and/or drawings that show how the exercise should be done. Additionally, videos on the accompanying DVD can clarify any confusion with the exercises. Finally, a detailed training plan is presented for developing the stamina, strength and technique needed to move up in the climbing grades.I think it's worth noting that while this is billed as a "self-coached" training book, some of the exercises can't be done without a partner. In fact, working with an equally-motivated partner through the course of the book would probably be the ideal approach.I believe "The Self-Coached Climber" is a perfect companion piece to Arno Ilgner's mental training book "The Rock Warrior's Way" for anyone wanting to become a better and more confident climber.
Great tool. Ive been climbing for thirty plus yrs. Ive purchased, read, applied the techniques in most of the climbing books that deal with how to get good at climbing. (You would think I would be better!) The thing that I think sets this one appart is the many many technique exercises. You can learn how to do a move. When to do the move. How to practice the move. When to practice the move. And how to blend that move into your bullet proof stack of moves that you will use when you are pumping out, runout, cruxing, or just trying to make it to the top of that red boulder problem in the gym! :)
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